Tag Archives: Food

Christmas kitchen tips from Rigaud chef Steve Carss

Red-onion-jamWill you be busy in the kitchen this Christmas? I’m super envious of chef’s lucky family who are sitting down to Steve’s Christmas lunch this year. I was chatting to him about what he’s cooking (goose is on the cards) and about what might make life easier for everyone in my kitchen. He laughs at my total lack of culinary prowess so taking pity on my family he’s provided this recipe for his most excellent Chicken Liver Parfait. He absolutely assures me that this is a fail-safe, dead cert winner and that even I can expect a result.

One thing I have worked out for myself is that the onion jam is pretty handy to have around. It’s a great addition to a cheese board or the cold cuts on Boxing day, or add it to freshly chopped tomato and maybe a handful of basil and it makes a truly delicious bruschetta topping. Pop a spoonful on a square of puff pastry with a slice of goat’s cheese and you have a melting little tart and if you’re considering a little foie gras over the festive season then this is the perfect topping…

Chicken liver parfait, with red onion jam and toasted brioche

“Fantastic starter for Christmas day, I always make this at home for Christmas, it’s easy, you can make it in advance and everybody loves it” Steve Carss

For the parfait

500 g Chicken livers

300 g Hot melted butter

100 ml White wine

100 ml Madeira

200 ml Port

100 g Shallots finely chopped

Thyme

1 Garlic clove

2 Eggs

2 Egg yolks

2 tsp salt

1 tsp cracked black pepper

You need a buttered terrine and also a bain-marie that will fit into your oven. Set your oven to 140C.

Sweat the chopped shallots, thyme and garlic for three to five minutes, then add the wine, Madeira and port. Reduce this to a jam like consistency.

Separately melt butter then add the butter, the wine and shallot reduction, along with the livers, the eggs and the salt to a blender and blitz it up, to emulsify. Pour into greased terrine and cook in bain-marie for about 45 mins turning half way through cooking. It’s cooked when it reaches 65C, or when you tilt the terrine, the parfait should remain in place but bulge slightly. Leave the terrine to cool then chill in fridge for at least four hours. It tastes better if it’s been left to mature for a day.

Serve with a slice of warm, toasted brioche and the onion jam.

For the jam

500g Red onions finely sliced

40g Sunflower oil

50g Soft brown sugar

100ml Red wine

80ml Red wine Vinegar

1 tsp Salt

1 tsp Fresh cracked Black pepper

Heat oil in a pan thick based pan, add the onions and sugar and cook over a high heat for 7 -10 minutes until the onions are soft and caramelised.

Add the red wine and red wine vinegar and simmer for 20 – 30 minutes until reduced and quite thick. Season with salt and pepper (yes, you really need that much seasoning)

Sterilise your jars in the oven at 160C for around 15 minutes then once they have cooled add the hot jam to jars and pop the lid on. This will keep for up to 18 months although you’ll probably get through this quantity before the Christmas tree is packed away.

Wedding planning weekends – the big feed

Five brides gathered at Rigaud over the weekend for a wedding planning weekend with the Rigaud team. We love these weekends since they give us the opportunity to get to know the couple and in some cases their close family and to work out what they really want from their chateau wedding.

On Saturday we visited head chef Laurent, at what he romantically refers to as his “laboratoire”. You or I might describe it as his industrial catering unit but hey, this is France. There, in the heart of the kitchen the brides sampled everything they will be served during their wedding day and they were able to choose specific course options they will go for.

First up were oysters, crevettes, ceviche and tartare of scallop with wild salmon, swiftly followed by foie gras toasts with cèps and more with figs. Superb jambon “Patta Negra” with red pepper tapenade came next and for me the star of the canapé parade was the pan fried scallops with leeks and saffron jus.

Starters were limited to asparagus with smoked salmon or the guacamole with crab which looks fabulous in a tall Martini glass. Laurent explained that he is always happy to do a delicious seasonal salad to start, with perhaps asparagus and quail egg in the spring? There’s room to improvise. For mains they had the regional signature dish of confit de canard with dauphinois potatoes. It never fails to please. Then the cheese course was Brebis with Morello cherry jam.

Before dessert the brides were given a spun caramel demonstration which will stand them in good stead for married domestic bliss, then came the “Declinaison Autour du Chocolat” an assembly of chocolate delights. The secondary dessert was a quick profiterole which would form the Piece Monte wedding cake that we can offer in place of a dessert on the wedding day.

We rolled them back out of the laboratoire into cars for the trip home where the real wine tasting began. They didn’t really do justice to Frank’s fabulous buffet that evening which we’re still finishing for lunch.